The Kids Menu at Le Bernardin

A recent article raised the raging debate of whether some fancy restaurants have crossed the line in not just permitting, but actually encouraging diners to bring their young children to sample the foie gras and tuna tartare, risking patron-disturbing tantrums, food playtime and screams of "No, I will not eat my braised asparagus with white wine! I want McNuggets!"

As a parent of a son who has apparently inherited my picky tongue and my preference for the fast food value menu over fine refined dining, I concur with the desire of restauranteurs who are on a crusade to help refine the young palate so they don't grow up thinking that the pinnacle is processed meat and high fructose corn syrup. Despite my own culinary leanings (KFC, Long John Silver's), I'd like my son to be able to eat a braised short rib, mint encrusted lamb chops or pan-seared cod with burnt butter sauce without having a gag reflex (thankfully, my older daughter has the culinary openness of my wife, so she'll eat almost anything).

What I found interesting is how strong the reactions are from those who absolutely want kids to be nowhere within a mile radius of fine restaurants. Posts such as:

"People who force their toddlers on others in enclosed public spaces like fine restaurants (and airplanes) are even more selfish than those who insist on talking on cell phones in such places."

"I'm with the majority -- thanks for this list, because now we know which high-end restaurants we will never set foot in."

I understand the frustration. I'm also the guy that wrote about the idiocy of allowing people to use cell phones on airplanes. To enjoy a romantic, peaceful and thoughtfully-savored meal without undue distraction is the right of people who plunk down $125 or more per person. I think the reasonable compromise is to ensure that there are strict and well-defined codes of behavior which are enforced upon those who bring children. If those are continuously violated to the detriment of the other guests, then the restaurant will reserve the right to pack the meal "to go" and send the patrons along their away.

At the end of the day, the market will rule how this evolves, and people will vote with their feet. If the "I want to bring my kids to fine dining" crowd proves to be more of a financial boon than the loss of "anti-kids at fancy restaurant" crowd, then fine restaurants will either (1) they need to jump on the bandwagon or be left behind or (2) they need to find a niche for kid-hating food lovers (see the second comment above).

So in doing my part to make my voice heard, I'd better find my Zagat's copy and get the kids ready for dinner.